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All photographs by Erich Martin
All photographs by Erich Martin

Oysters Spring Eternal

In Spring Creek, Florida, three young oyster farming operations demonstrate the modern response to the decline of traditional oyster harvesting along the Panhandle.

By Erich Martin
Oct 13, 2022

A 26-mile drive south from Florida’s state capital takes you to the tiny former fishing village of Spring Creek. There, three newly established oyster aquaculture businesses are learning the trials and errors of oyster farming together.

Spring Creek is quintessentially Old Florida. The “spring” in the town’s name actually comes from a collection of springs that together pump out more fresh water per day than any other spring system in the state. That creates a mix of fresh water from the springs and salt water from the Gulf that folks in the area will tell you makes for particularly good seafood. Farmers have been working out of Spring Creek for the better part of a decade, but in recent years, aquaculture has gotten a new focus. That’s thanks to the decline of the famous Apalachicola Bay just 50 miles to the west.

Apalachicola oysters are famous. They’ve been served across the globe. According to the University of Florida, Apalachicola at one point accounted for 10 percent of the oysters sold in the United States. Generations of North Florida oystermen have depended on the bay and a day spent tonging oysters for their livelihood until the state of Florida closed Apalachicola Bay to oyster tonging in December of 2020 — a move that wasn’t much more than a formality. A slurry of disparate factors had already effectively closed the bay.

There had been over-harvesting as fear spread that oil from the 2010 BP oil spill would harm the oysters. There was decreased water flow — possibly from drought, possibly the ebb and flow from controlled releases by the Army Corps of Engineers. And there was the three-decade dispute between Florida and Georgia over the use of the Apalachicola-Chattahoochee-Flint river basin, which runs from the mountains of northeastern Georgia all the way down to the Apalachicola Bay. Less water means a saltier bay and invites predators like the rapacious snails known as oyster drills, which kill off the young oyster larvae known as “spat.”

Regardless of these factors, the result remains that no one may tong for oysters in the bay until at least the end of 2025.  during which time officials hope the oyster reefs and populations will regenerate. Tonging is the centuries-old method of harvesting oysters by using giant tongs to pull them up from their beds, and that method for years made Apalachicola a dominant force in oyster production.

But now, the methods for oyster harvesting are changing. Over in Spring Creek oyster farmers don’t tong: They plant spat in cages or bags that are submerged below the water, then hauled up as the oysters grow. Time, patience and a strong back are required for the hands-on process. The Spring Creek farmers have faced pushback, even vandalism from old timers who wish for the return of old ways and turn up their noses at the farmed mollusks, but the Spring Creek farmers are slowly changing hearts and minds. The oft-repeated rule of thumb about only eating oysters in months that include an R in their name doesn’t apply to most farmed oysters, since the bivalves are sterile and don’t breed. They make good eating year-round. And lately, Spring Creek Oysters are turning up on plates as far away as Atlanta, Georgia.

This collection of springs near the town of Spring Creek puts out more freshwater than any other spring system in the state, contributing to the special mix of saltwater and freshwater that locals say is responsible for the excellent seafood in the area.
This collection of springs near the town of Spring Creek puts out more freshwater than any other spring system in the state, contributing to the special mix of saltwater and freshwater that locals say is responsible for the excellent seafood in the area.
With her husband Dewey Houck, Jody Houck is one of the owners of the Spring Creek Marina. Together, they started Cypress Point Oyster Co. After leaving jobs in corporate America, Jody and Dewey wanted to find a way to be closer to their grandkids and make a positive environmental impact. For them, oyster farming was the answer.
With her husband Dewey Houck, Jody Houck is one of the owners of the Spring Creek Marina. Together, they started Cypress Point Oyster Co. After leaving jobs in corporate America, Jody and Dewey wanted to find a way to be closer to their grandkids and make a positive environmental impact. For them, oyster farming was the answer.
Most mornings, Jody and the crew start their day as the sun is about to come up. On this particular morning, a thick fog hangs low over the water. and the temperature is especially cold for North Florida. The first order of business is heading out to check the oysters and pull any from the water that have grown and are ready to be resorted or sent to market.
Most mornings, Jody and the crew start their day as the sun is about to come up. On this particular morning, a thick fog hangs low over the water. and the temperature is especially cold for North Florida. The first order of business is heading out to check the oysters and pull any from the water that have grown and are ready to be resorted or sent to market.
Jody says her farm uses a “high touch” approach that requires her team to pull the oysters regularly from the water, sort them and replace them in new oyster bags to ensure the bivalves have the right water flow and the room they need to grow.
Jody says her farm uses a “high touch” approach that requires her team to pull the oysters regularly from the water, sort them and replace them in new oyster bags to ensure the bivalves have the right water flow and the room they need to grow.
The oysters themselves are located about a five- or 10-minute boat ride from shore in a section of Apalachee Bay where about 15 out of a possible 45 oyster-farming leases are currently occupied by farmers.
The oysters themselves are located about a five- or 10-minute boat ride from shore in a section of Apalachee Bay where about 15 out of a possible 45 oyster-farming leases are currently occupied by farmers.
Matt Michalski, Adrian Morris and Connor Whitfield carry fresh oyster bags over to the marina for the oysters that were just sorted and tumbled to go into.
Matt Michalski, Adrian Morris and Connor Whitfield carry fresh oyster bags over to the marina for the oysters that were just sorted and tumbled to go into.
Bags for oysters sit next to an old building that was part of the Spring Creek Restaurant and Lodge property. The Spring Creek Restaurant had been open for over 40 years, since the late 1970s, but the owners decided not to reopen after sustaining serious damage during Hurricane Michael in 2018. Jody and Dewey now own the property now, but there are still plenty of reminders of the past. Jody says part of the appeal was that it is truly Old Florida, something that won’t be around for forever.
Bags for oysters sit next to an old building that was part of the Spring Creek Restaurant and Lodge property. The Spring Creek Restaurant had been open for over 40 years, since the late 1970s, but the owners decided not to reopen after sustaining serious damage during Hurricane Michael in 2018. Jody and Dewey now own the property now, but there are still plenty of reminders of the past. Jody says part of the appeal was that it is truly Old Florida, something that won’t be around for forever.
Jody holds up a young oyster that is not fully developed. These young oysters have more growing to do before they are mature enough to go to market. The fastest that process usually takes is three to six months. Jody tells me they make sure they weigh at least 30 grams. to ensure a good meat-to-shell ratio.
Jody holds up a young oyster that is not fully developed. These young oysters have more growing to do before they are mature enough to go to market. The fastest that process usually takes is three to six months. Jody tells me they make sure they weigh at least 30 grams. to ensure a good meat-to-shell ratio.
Adrian uses an old garden hoe to spread the oysters around so that they feed more easily into the tumbler, which cleans and sorts them.
Adrian uses an old garden hoe to spread the oysters around so that they feed more easily into the tumbler, which cleans and sorts them.
Oysters just pulled from the water have dirt, grass and sticks stuck to them. These are about to be run through a tumbler machine. If there is still buildup on the shells after that, it will likely be hammered away by hand. Cypress Point Oyster Co has three brands of oyster: Little Honeys, Otter’s Choice and Summer Salts. Jody says it’s important to sell farm-raised oysters in the first year of their lives. Going through a second summer is hard on them.
Oysters just pulled from the water have dirt, grass and sticks stuck to them. These are about to be run through a tumbler machine. If there is still buildup on the shells after that, it will likely be hammered away by hand. Cypress Point Oyster Co has three brands of oyster: Little Honeys, Otter’s Choice and Summer Salts. Jody says it’s important to sell farm-raised oysters in the first year of their lives. Going through a second summer is hard on them.
Oysters pulled out of the water are sent through the tumbler to get rid of growth on the shells. Buildup on the oyster shells needs to be broken off with tools as they go down the conveyor belt. Tumbling the oysters helps strengthen the shells and makes deeper cups in the oyster.
The oysters that have been pulled out of the water are sent through the tumbler to get rid of growth on the shells. Oysters that have a lot of build up which often needs to be broken off with tools as they go down the conveyor belt. Tumbling the oysters helps strengthen the shells and make deeper cups in the oyster.
After the oysters are removed from the water and are back on land, Jody scans the radio-frequency identification tags on the bags. The main data they capture is bag size, the day the oysters went into the water, the day brought out, the weight in the water, the weight on land, which oyster lease they came from and when they are ready for market. Both Jody and her husband Dewey had careers in technology and assiduously collect data about their oysters. They’re working on building a data model so that other farmers can also know when to take certain actions as they grow oysters from spat to market weight.
After the oysters are removed from the water and are back on land, Jody scans the radio-frequency identification tags on the bags. The main data they capture is bag size, the day the oysters went into the water, the day brought out, the weight in the water, the weight on land, which oyster lease they came from and when they are ready for market. Both Jody and her husband Dewey had careers in technology and assiduously collect data about their oysters. They’re working on building a data model so that other farmers can also know when to take certain actions as they grow oysters from spat to market weight.
Jody and Dewey (center) with members of their team and other members of the Spring Creek collective of oyster farmers — Connor Whitfield, Bryan Rackley, Matt Michalski and Adrian Morris.
Jody and Dewey (center) with members of their team and other members of the Spring Creek collective of oyster farmers — Connor Whitfield, Bryan Rackley, Matt Michalski and Adrian Morris.
Bryan Rackley, one of the owners of Kimball House restaurant in Decatur, Georgia, is the newest farmer in the Spring Creek area. He and his team have grown their own oyster seed and now feature their own farmed oysters, named Shiny Dimes, in Kimball House's extensive and celebrated oyster program.
Bryan Rackley, one of the owners of Kimball House restaurant in Decatur, Georgia, is the newest farmer in the Spring Creek area. He and his team have grown their own oyster seed and now feature their own farmed oysters, named Shiny Dimes, in Kimball House's extensive and celebrated oyster program.
Cainnon Gregg, one of the first to join this group of farmers at Spring Creek, owns Pelican Oyster Co. His oysters, Salty Birds, are popping up on the menu in some of the South’s most notable restaurants, like The Grey in Savannah, Husk in Nashville and Kimball House in Decatur.
Cainnon Gregg, one of the first to join this group of farmers at Spring Creek, owns Pelican Oyster Co. His oysters, Salty Birds, are popping up on the menu in some of the South’s most notable restaurants, like The Grey in Savannah, Husk in Nashville and Kimball House in Decatur.
Adrian Morris surveys the oyster leases as the boat pulls up in the morning fog. After working with Jody’s crew, he is now working toward getting his own Spring Creek lease up and running.
Adrian Morris surveys the oyster leases as the boat pulls up in the morning fog. After working with Jody’s crew, he is now working toward getting his own Spring Creek lease up and running.
Jody and Adrian grab the line to which the oyster bags are attached, preparing to return the bags they pulled out earlier that morning back into the water.
Jody and Adrian grab the line to which the oyster bags are attached, preparing to return the bags they pulled out earlier that morning back into the water.
With bags returned to the water, it's time to go back to shore. Connor, Adrian and Jody pause for a minute after the physical work of reattaching oyster bags to their line in the water. “It’s a cult and you have to want to do it,” Jody says about the time and effort the oyster business requires.
With bags returned to the water, it's time to go back to shore. Connor, Adrian and Jody pause for a minute after the physical work of reattaching oyster bags to their line in the water. “It’s a cult and you have to want to do it,” Jody says about the time and effort the oyster business requires.
Oysters are filters. They clean the water they live in and remove nutrients that could otherwise overload other plants and animal life. Farmed oysters are a sustainable food source. The aquaculture process has faced criticism from old timers who see tonging wild oysters from the water as part of their way of life. But farming oysters lets this part of North Florida keep its notoriety as an oyster destination while giving Apalachicola Bay time to rest and reset so that it can hopefully once again reopen to oyster harvesting.
Oysters are filters. They clean the water they live in and remove nutrients that could otherwise overload other plants and animal life. Farmed oysters are a sustainable food source. The aquaculture process has faced criticism from old timers who see tonging wild oysters from the water as part of their way of life. But farming oysters lets this part of North Florida keep its notoriety as an oyster destination while giving Apalachicola Bay time to rest and reset so that it can hopefully once again reopen to oyster harvesting.
Every day as the Spring Creek farmers head out to their oyster leases. they pass this final piece of land before reaching open water. Fishermen used to hang their nets from these poles as far back as the middle of last century, a lifetime ago; before the oil spill, or the net ban, or the Apalachicola Bay closure. In Spring Creek, the past hangs thick in the air, as it does in many places along the Forgotten Coast. But down below the surface, bubbling up like the springs that give the rustic fishing village its name, is something else: hope.
Every day as the Spring Creek farmers head out to their oyster leases. they pass this final piece of land before reaching open water. Fishermen used to hang their nets from these poles as far back as the middle of last century, a lifetime ago; before the oil spill, or the net ban, or the Apalachicola Bay closure. In Spring Creek, the past hangs thick in the air, as it does in many places along the Forgotten Coast. But down below the surface, bubbling up like the springs that give the rustic fishing village its name, is something else: hope.
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1 thought on “Oysters Spring Eternal”

  1. Dmccarthy44

    I never knew much about oysters let alone oyster farming. I feel like I learned a lot. I think farming is as difficult as it is rewarding. The photography shows what that lifestyle is like and what the environment is like.

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